YOUR FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q) I bought a 1995 boat, only to register it with the U.S. Coast Guard and when I received my Certificate of Documentation it showed my boat as a '94! The title showed it as a '95, but the Coast Guard says it is correct on their records. Can you explain what is correct?
A) You didn't specify the actual serial number, but I'll assume what I think to be the problem.
In the US, the last two digits of the hull # represent the true model year, the third from last digit denoting the year built. In your case, see if it ends in .........495, then your mystery is solved. Of course, as in the auto industry, they begin building prior to the actual model year that is forthcoming. What actually denotes the actual MODEL YEAR of a vessel are the last two digits, period. If you go by the USCG Document, they do not use the connotation of 'model year', as they go by what is known as a "Builder's Certificate" and therefore only register as 'year built', and it in no way directly reflects the true model year of the vessel in question. All USCG documented vessel built beginning in July but prior to December 31st are actually all models of the upcoming year. A state registration on this boat (in any US state!) would show it as a 1995 model, in all cases. Bottom line... it is a 1995 vessel, not a '94. Check the third from last digit to always be sure.

Q) What are all these different drivetrains? What are the differences between 1) An inboard, 2) An inboard/outboard, and 3) An outboard?
A1) An inboard (whether gas or diesel) consists of an engine placed somewhat centered fore and aft in the boat. A transmission (simple fwd/neutral/rev automatic transmission) usually mounted directly to the engine, which has at the rear end a coupling where the propeller shaft is connected. This shaft passes directly through the hull of the boat via a shaft log (an adjustable seal to control water intrusion from the sea outside, which also lubricates the shaft as it rotates). The shaft is supported from the hull with a strut, and the propellers attach to the end of the prop shaft after passing through the struts. Directly behind the propellers are the rudders, which steer the boat by redirecting the thrust of the props. V-drive inboards only differ by having a transmission with a transfer case redirecting the driveline back under the engine. This allows placing the engines farther back creating more cabin space.
A2) Inboard/outboards, I/O’s, or more properly known as sterndrives, have an inboard engine mounted against the transom, with an intermediate assembly to allow the driveshaft to exit directly through the transom of the boat. They are found both in gas and diesel. The outboard part of inboard/outboard comes from the outboard engine style of ‘transmission & drive system’ so to speak being mounted outside the boat on the transom. Steering of an I/O comes from both the thrust being steered directly as well as the rudder affect provided by the differential case called the ‘lower unit’ on which the propeller shaft exits to mount the prop.
A3) An outboard engine is completely self-contained, mounting outside the boat on the transom of any hull designed to use outboard power, or a boat modified with the addition of a bracket on the transom to accommodate engine mounting. Most outboard.

Q) Why is it that on many twin-engine boats, the hour meters show different hours? Does this mean one engine had broken down? Is it something to concern myself over?
A) There could be several reasons for this, and most are of no concern. Losing the use of an engine and having to return to port on one engine can cause this, but normally you do not run so long as to create a large gap between the hour meters. Most times it’s as simple as an owner starting and running the same engine first each time they operate the boat, getting the engine smoothed out and then starting the second. This one to two minutes adds up faster than you think. If there is a very large difference in hour meters, it is usually one of the following: simply that the lower meter doesn’t work (to check this just run the engine and verify the hour meter is clocking time by watching the minutes indicator); someone left the ignition switch in the ‘on’ position. Many boats’ meters run even though the engine isn’t running, as the ignition switch activates them. Until it is switched off, it will run continuously; Lastly, inquire as to an engine and/or hour meter ever having been replaced in the boat.

Q) Gas or Diesel, which should I choose?
A) This question is affected by many variables. Variables such as geographic location (Will you be on an inland lake where diesel may not be available? Will you possibly go to where gasoline can be hard to find, if not cost prohibitive as well?), how much you will use the boat (diesel boats are more efficient in the long run [noticeable in the short run also if the usage is very heavy] but they add a lot to the price of the same exact boat with gasoline power…pay now and buy diesel engines, or pay as you go in you gasoline tank, it almost that simple. If you will only use the boat 100-150 hours a year, then choose either, as it may not be a big enough savings to initially spend another $10-30,000 for the diesel boat. Diesel engines do have a significantly longer lifespan (as much as 10X), so if you intend to keep a boat for a long time then the expense with be worthwhile, as well as if you will be logging a lot of hours on a boat regularly.

Q)Why is it that when I go to all the Major boat shows looking for used boats, all of the used and/or brokerage boats at the in-water displays are big. They are usually over 40’, and even if smaller, almost always more expensive than maybe what I would wish to find for myself at the show?
A) Show space is incredibly expensive for dockage of used boats at most Major Boat Shows. The expense for the dock space to display the boats, combined with the maintenance and cleaning costs daily, prohibit most sellers with boats in this size or price range to display their boats. The average expense to display a boat at the show is well over $6,000. That price covers boats from 30' to 50', with no difference in price for the space distinguished by the 20' difference in footage. It is just not cost effective for a seller (or for a buyer for that matter who, if he buys at a show, ultimately shares some of that expense within the price he pays), to display smaller boats and/or less expensive boats. When I negotiate for buyers and sellers on boats in the $100K to $200K ranges, that $6,000 figure ends up a stumbling block when negotiations near the final number, someone, or both, having to ‘eat it’ so to speak. BUY BEFORE A SHOW(see next paragraph)! Only on boats $3-400K and up does it really pay to display a used boat at a show, as with the larger dollar amounts involved the percentage of the total sale diminishes the expense to well within reasonable limits for the objective sought. That is simply why all the slips at major shows are filled with boats (used and/or brokerage boats specifically) typically 40' and up.
The smartest way to get the best deal is as follows: When someone currently owns a boat and is looking to trade up or down to a new boat, or even another used boat, they would prefer to know there boat at least has a deal pending on it while they search for their next boat. Considering the trade-in values that most dealers initially allow compared to retail value, YOU, as well as the SELLER, can benefit from making a deal PRIOR to a major boat show. You buy the boat below retail value, he gets better than trade-in value, and he is free to go to the show to buy without a trade, possibly getting a little better deal because the deal is 'clean'. It's a win-win situation. Don’t wait for a Boat Show, be smart and take advantage of the leverage offered to both BUYERS AND SELLERS ALIKE before a show. Besides the above, another reason to buy before a Boat Show… there will simply be more boats available to you, as the ‘buying frenzy’ that is created by a Boat Show atmosphere, afterwards there are usually many less boats available. This is because I’m not the only one that knows the situation I have just described above!

Q)What rules of 'thumb' should you use to determine the proper mounting height for an outboard motor? I have a 20' Angler with a recent re-engined 150 Merc.
A) Rule of thumb has little to do with it, but the manufacturers of both the boats and the engines have O.E.M.* outboard mounting height specifications, and these sure do matter. Typically, the measurement from the top of your transom cap vertically down to the lower most point of the ‘V ‘ or ‘U’ of your boat’s bottom, directly relates to this O.E.M. measurement (‘Cat’ hulls are a different ‘animal’ entirely, and have a totally different criteria for determining the recommended height and/or engine shaft lengths, as are boats with ‘notched transoms’**). With so many boats of different sizes, and even more today as technology advances, transom configurations (open transom, extended mounting bracket, deep cut transom, high cut, and so on…), single, twin, and even triple and quad installations, your best bet is to consult your boat and engine manufacturers for their recommendations.
Your particular boat should require a ‘long shaft’ engine, which typically is for a 20” transom boat. Measure it as shown above to double-check it and be sure. As for your ‘new’ engine, the shaft length must be checked also to insure proper performance, and would be denoted within the model number by an ‘L’ for ‘long’ shaft.
Small rowboats and dinghies (8’-20+’), including most inflatable boats, require a ‘short’ shaft (15”) (no designation letter present) for proper performance. Similarly, most smaller 15’-21’ ski boats, center consoles, bass, flats, and runabout boats use the 20” ‘L’ height. Mid-sized (20’-28’) single outboard, and the larger (28-40+’) multi-engine offshore boats, usually require either the ‘XL’ ‘extra long’ 25”, or ‘XXL’ ‘extra extra long’ 30” models, depending on the number of engines, as well as the intended use of the boat.
The proper height is important because the cavitation plate of your outboard should be equal to the bottom of your boat, in normal installations, for best all-around performance. Many modifications are viable under a variety of other applications.
* - O.E.M. - Original Equipment Manufacturer
** - ‘Notched transom’ - a transom which is cut horizontally across the bottom, and also cut vertically a short distance forward (in most cases, about 5” high for single engines, and more for multiples), ultimately ‘notching’ the last bit of V off the running surface. This allows the engine to be mounted higher and still retain good water for the prop to bite, and is useful to those running shallower water not only for overall depth of the prop under the boat, but also to allow the boat to plane with less water beneath it. Flats boats and bass boats usually take these principles to the extreme, adding jackplates to adjust the height… even while running!

Q) Back on to the transom height question . I have a small 14'runabout powered by a 40 HP Merc. mounted with the cavitation plate approx 1- 1 1/2" above the bottom of the hull . This seems to cause problems with getting up on the plane . This was fixed with an aftermarket wing . My question is, Would it be worth cutting out the transom so I can lower the outboard to the correct height , and what effect will this have?
A) If the hydrofoil you added solved the problem, then I'd leave it alone. 1 to 1-1/2 inches shouldn't cause that big of a problem in the first place, so it it probably safe to say you needed the foil regardless to help a short hull length get up with the smaller 40HP engine. Or, maybe you’re expecting too much of it. You didn’t say what year or make engine you had, or how many hours are on it, so I’ll assume it is in strong and proper running condition. Also, some hulls just have different characteristics than another, especially with smaller engines like a 40HP. Whatever you do, don't cut the top of the transom down as you will surely affect the integrity of it. If anything, add a 2-3" standoff bracket and adjust it up and down, then running the boat until you find the performance you're looking for. I hope this answered your question, and if you need further help, just ask.

Q) I am building a flat bottom dory with a transom height of 22". It calls for a maximum of a 25 hp engine but there are no specifications in the plans to tell me if there should be a cut out for the outboard, and if so, to what depth should I make it. The transom height is 22", and I would like to install a 15-25hp mercury or Yamaha engine. I just don't know what length the engine shaft should be. Do I use a long or short shaft on a 22" height transom? What are the requirements for each? Do I make a cut out, and at what height should the transom be from the bottom of the cut out to the keel? Please help, I am definitely at a loss here.
A) Don’t despair! It sounds like you need a 'long shaft' engine which is primarily for a 20" transom. If your building plans don't call for cutting the transom(I assume you used the plan's measurements to build the transom in the first place, right?), then DON'T! The 2" difference could be due to the bottom design of your specific Dory’s intended design. I would contact the supplier of the plans to double check this, but you probably already tried and couldn’t and that’s why I received your e-mail. For a 'fun fact', the outboards cavitation plate is designed to be even with the bottom running surface of the boat, but in many cases a slight raising of this height improves the performance, hence the extensive use of hydraulic jack plates on many boats to change this height while underway.
If you're building a true "Dory", your transom should angle inward from the top of the transom to the lower running surface, effectively moving your engine further from the transom. This could be why the transom is two inches higher... an engine mounted further back from the running surface's trailing edge should be raised slightly to accomodate the raised flow of water coming off the hull bottom.
Bottom line? A 20" shaft should do you perfect. I hope this has helped, and good luck with your project. Let me know how it turns out.